TWO HAIRY MONTHS IN BANGKOK
October 23, 1995 to December 1995.
The events of the last part of 1995 present themselves in my memory as a
series of jagged, disconnected fragments. So that's how I will present them here. The day after the eclipse -- October 24, 1995. English Teacher Q is
arriving from San Francisco. This following a suicide attempt by overdose,
a week of institutionalization, and then homelessness. He has borrowed
some money from another friend to buy a plane ticket to Bangkok. I go to
the airport to meet him with a sign reading "Creepy Head." The Bangkok
airport is so badly arranged for meeting arrivals, however, that he manages to get
past me. I go home in a taxi, which takes three hours because the roads are
all flooded because it's rainy season. Day 1: English Teacher Q and I are sitting on the balcony of the
guest house. He has found my guest house and left a message reading "You can run
but you can't hide!" signed with the name of the Principal of our High School.
Finally he wanders in, with two beers. He seems a bit frazzled and manic,
but probably no worse than ever. I give him some money to stake him until
his first paycheck. First Day of Work: English Teacher Q has only had a few days to adjust,
but the manager (the third in the six months I worked there) has agreed to
employ him. I am walking with him to catch the bus. He had
disappeared the night before, and is clearly still drunk from whatever he'd been
doing. He reeks of alcohol. He is carrying a two-liter plastic coke
bottle, 1/3 full, and he offers me a swig. I choke -- it is approximately
half Thai rice whiskey. The Froggie Arrives: The mean little French girl who I have a terrible
crush on arrives in Bangkok from Ko Samui the day before English Teacher Q.
I don't see her for several days. Finally I am in a little dance bar
making out with a fat Swedish girl and I see her. I go up to her and swat
her and tell her I was worried about her. She is taken aback by my
irritation and makes excuses and leaves. I see her a few days later and
apologize. A week later she moves into the same guest house as myself and
English Teacher Q. My heart lurches when I see her. I am furious
with myself for my weakness, but I am head over heels with her. Commuting: We are going home from work on a Saturday afternoon at about
seven pm, after some afterwork beers with the staff. Halfway back to the Lumpini Park / Khao San Road area, where we live, the bus stops. The roads
are all flooded around the river. English Teacher Q and I take off our
shoes and roll up our trousers and wade through knee deep waters for about a
mile. A couple of boys in a shallow-bottomed boat paddle by, smiling
happily. We make jokes about alligators and snakes. The sun is going
down as we cross the bridge back into Banglumpoo. The sky is aflame like
an infected asscrack. "Well, you wanted exotic," I tell English Teacher Q. Working: English Teacher Q gets on well enough at work. I walk
into his classroom one Saturday afternoon. He is manically chattering to
his class, who are all sitting grinning ear to ear and giggling. On the
white board is an enormous swastika with the words "Third Reich" under it.
The words "Death Camp" are to the side of that. The words "mutant" and
"mutation" are under that, and a cartoon of a drooling boy with flippers for
arms and legs. (English Teacher Q is a swell cartoonist.) I deeply
regret that no photo was taken of this. "So, what was the focus of today's
lesson?" I ask English Teacher Q. "We were just talking," he says.
We go out and get drunk. Disintegrating: English Teacher Q and I spend our day off wandering
across Bangkok. We wander downtown to the Patpong area after taking the
river taxi. English Teacher Q has discovered that valiums and other
powerful painkillers are available without a prescription at most pharmacies.
He's looking for some painkiller he's only heard about -- used in South America
instead of anaesthetic for operations. At the first two pharmacies they
smile in horror at him; at the third he manages to get what he's looking for.
He's very drunk at this point, losing coherence. He pops a couple of the
pills. As we are walking through Lumpini Park as the sun is going down --
again the sky is a virulant red and purple -- he has finally stopped bitching
and complaining and started talking about how beautiful everything is. I
know this is a bad sign. He sits down on a bench; soon he is as
limp as a corpse. I manage to get him onto a bus, though he has only
rudimentary walking skills and is quite combative. He falls over on the
bus seat, slobbering all over the woman next to him. The smiling little
brown people have all moved away from us. Work-Related Disintegrating: I'm teaching a TOEFL class in the sound
lab. It's a late class for a Sunday -- I finish at 8:00 -- the others are
already down at the bar. I see English Teacher Q stagger past the window
of the sound lab at about 7:00 -- his shirt is untucked, he is grinning ear to
ear in a maniac manner, his face is red, his hair is messed. I have
a bad feeling. When I go down to the bar after 8:00, two teachers are
there talking about how English Teacher Q had drunk 5 Chang beers (8
percent alcohol) and begun shouting obscenities and acting in an incredibly
embarrassing manner. This shocks me. Everyone in the staff screams
obscenities and acts in an incredibly embarrassing manner -- how had English
Teacher Q distinguished himself? Fixating on Frenchy: The mean little French girl quickly hooks up with
the "Jewelry Mafia" a loathsome group of young Thai boys with long hair who
dress up like hippie Indians and sell silver jewelry to the tourists on Khao San
Road. For some reason I end up going with the Frenchy on my day off to the
central Chatuchak market, where they sell everything under the sun, including
endangered species. She finds some long-haired jewelry boy she knows and I
keep trying to leave but she asks me to stay -- eventually of course we smoke
some pot and I lose the will. Why on earth am I so in love with this
strange little girl? Who knows. We end up outside of a large
shopping mall in an outdoor beer garden with a group of Thai guys dressed as
Indians. I can barely refrain from laughing. Then the Thai guys
dressed like cowboys show up. I get a taxi home. I'm so upset I take
a sleeping pill that English Teacher Q has given me. English Teacher Q's birthday -- late November -- the staff at the school has
decided to go down to Nana Plaza. English Teacher Q has been accepted --
the guys have even decided to chip in and get him a transsexual prostitute, as
per his inclinations.
He does not get to enjoy this, however, as while we are drinking he suddenly stands bolt
upright, clutches his face, shouts, "Oh my god" and runs off. "That's a bit
worrisome," I tell another teacher. English Teacher Q claims the next day
not to remember what he'd done or why he'd left. On The Bus: English Teacher Q confesses to me that he's been having
waking hallucinations. He says that on the way to work the other day he
had seen a large hand burst out of the ground. We agree that's probably not
good. We talk a little about English teaching. I tell him about a
joke from the old "I LOVE LUCY" tv show. Lucy is worried about the bad
diction of her husband and friends, and doesn't want her baby Little Ricky to
speak as badly as they do, so she hires a speech coach. The speech coach
comes in and one of the first things he says is "There are two words I never
want you to use. One of them is 'swell' and the other one is 'lousy'.
To which Fred Murtz replies, "Give us the swell one first." English
Teacher Q laughs until tears flow from this joke. On The Roof: One afternoon we are sunbathing on the roof of the hotel,
after a night of heavy drinking at Nana Plaza. English Teacher Q has given
me a valium -- I usually don't like downers but I figure it won't hurt. We
smoke some pot too, and both of us fall asleep. I wake up later and
someone has hung their laundry out over us; we are surrounded by flapping white
sheets. For a brief moment I have a strange idea I have died and gone to
heaven. Battered Bitch Syndrome: The French friend of the little French girl I
have a crush on invites me for a walk one day. We walk along a canal past
all the old wooden houses and rickety little food stands. The French
friend is 28 -- it seems she has just as much of a crush on the
little French girl as I do. I'm somehow not surprised by this, nor am I
particularly surprised when she reveals that the little French girl's Thai
boyfriend hits her frequently. We confront the little French girl about
this later and she smiles in a way that suggests she's pleased that we're upset
about it, but she's not about to admit there's any kind of problem. I am
miserable. Under The Bus: I go down to English Teacher Q's room one morning and
find the door open. This is unusual, as English Teacher Q is
obsessive-compulsive about door locks, among a few hundred other things.
He is inert, merely moans when I tell him to wake up. I thump him a couple
of times. He barely responds. I hit him harder. "Wake up,
fucker. Have you been at the South American surgery pills again?" "I
got hit by a bus!" he finally says. Apparently running to catch a bus
drunk he'd managed to stumble into it while it was still moving and knock
himself silly. He is in a lot of pain. Later he is taken to the
hospital and x-rayed -- all his bones are in one piece, it seems, if not his
psyche. Even all the painkillers he has access to don't seem to help the
agonizing back pain, however. He can hardly walk. I Am Threatened By Jewelry Mafia -- The French girl has found a new
boyfriend, a vapid looking Thai monkeyboy with dreadlocks. He sees me
talking to her often and becomes irritated. My utter lack of attempts to
be courteous to him make things worse -- my constant frowning and brusque
manners deeply offend a lot of Thai people. Probably the French girl
played it up in some way, too. Later the other French girl says the
Jewelry Mafia is thinking about giving me a kicking. I consider taking a
concrete block down the street to where they sell jewelry on the street and
smashing it down on one's head in a pre-emptive strike. I'm growing
frazzled. I begin giving the Jewelry mafia a huge lamprey grin whenever I
see them, almost looking forward to getting my head beat in. I take to
carrying a butterfly knife. Nothing ever comes of it. Holiday: For Christmas the gang decided to go down to Krabi on the west
coast. English Teacher Q has had to leave a few days before the rest of us
to get a new visa in Malaysia. We hit the beaches with great delight.
English Teacher Q is supposed to meet us or leave a message in some various
places, but he never does. English Teacher M and I are going to stay for
the entire month of January in Ko Samui, the others are going back to Bangkok.
On the bus we meet a South African couple who mention that they'd met an
American with a ponytail abysmally fucked up on pills and alcohol. "Oh
that sounds like our boy," says English Teacher M. Quiet Ending: I go back to Bangkok at the end of January to find that
English Teacher Q has unceremoniously "done a runner" still owing me $200.
The gang is not sure why; though they'd heard something about an apocalyptic
drunk on Ko Pi Pi that ended with him lying unconscious in a freshly-limed pit
toilet with his flesh being burned. He leaves a rather weak goodbye note
for me saying that it was all just too much. He's gone back to America, to
the city near where we grew up-- which he hates-- and to his shrew girlfriend.
The French girl also has moved out of the hotel. I see her a couple more
times at food stands, looking more and more wan and haggard each time.
Alone again. Finally.